II. Colors

There are three reasons I never joined the military: (1) I'm partially color blind, (2) my feet are flatter than a road rolled over by a steamroller, and (3) there was no Space Force at that time. I think that's the outfit I would join if given the option. Our newest branch is somewhat maligned, but they are the most fashion forward. The Army, Marine Corps, and Navy have very traditional uniforms that aren’t that different from what you’d see a hundred years ago. Space Force, on the other hand, has an asymmetrical double-breasted style jacket with an angled button pattern giving the uniform a motion that you don't see in other kinds of formal wear. It reminds me of the uniforms from the original Star Trek films, a bold choice indeed. Add onto that the flying delta symbols and you have a dripped-out ensemble, as the youth would say.

I think I've lost the thread a bit. What I wanted to talk about was my color blindness. It's not complete but just enough where it's hard to tell certain shades apart and some things look grayer. As a result, I always bring my wife along for any kind of clothes shopping so she can make the final call on the overall color scheme that I'm putting together. It's one of the benefits of being in a relationship.

Color is the first thing people will notice about your suit. All the details are lost at a distance, and you'll first appear as a blob of color. That color can tell a lot about you and your image—ranging from reserved and serious to relaxed and easy going—and this first glance sets the tone of your interactions. It is lamentable that English conservatism won out over continental flamboyance when it comes to suiting colors. Look at paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries and marvel at the bold colors important people were wearing in formal situations; yet more proof that we are living in one of the bad timelines.

We'll go over the basics, such as they are, in this chapter so you can build a wardrobe that reflects you within our current context. The bottom line up front is to start with something classic, like a black or middle blue if you’re first starting out, then experiment with some browns and light gray to diversify once you’re sure how much money you want to sink into your suit spectrum.

The Triumvirate

Most guides will tell you that your first suit should be one of three colors: navy blue, black, or charcoal. These are very easy colors to pair with just about anything. They let you experiment more with ties and shirt colors, which you can acquire more cheaply than additional suits. You can also wear these three more frequently without drawing attention. Other colors will stand out and make people notice when you wear the same suit multiple days a week. In contrast, you can wear a background color suit every day and nobody's going to notice. I therefore don't disagree that these are a good first option. They're just a bit boring.

Charcoal. I don’t know why you’d want a charcoal suit. It's less formal than black but less relaxed and interesting than a lighter gray. It shoots right down the middle and doesn't hit anything of interest. It's like picking both strength and dexterity for a Dungeons and Dragons character: highly inefficient. If you want a darker suit that's a little more interesting, pick a black fabric with a subtle pattern to the weave.

Expanded Repertoire

There is so much more to the world of suit colors than the basic three. While less common in everyday experience in the nation's capital, they can allow you to better express and build your individual style. The options in this section are fully appropriate on their own. No one—except the annoying dress code enforcing sticklers at the State Department—should object to any of them. Some come with some considerations, especially seasonality. You can get by with the basic three at any time of year, however, I prefer to leave those darker colors for the winter months. You don't want to be caught outside in a black suit or navy blue suit during the DC summer, else you will suffer. Winter is an ever-shrinking season here, so you want good options for the majority of the year when you’re sweating it out in a Metro car.

Gray. While it can give 1960s vibes, a lighter gray suit can be a solid choice for the workplace. It's certainly more interesting than any of the big three, and you have more fabric, texture, and color variations to choose from. For example, any natural variations in a natural fabric will be apparent and add another dimension to the color. The only consideration I have is to make sure that it is not glossy, which can look cheap and fake compared to the sophistication of a matte finish.

Brown. The first things that come to mind for this color might be a professor in a tweed jacket or some door-to-door salesman from the 1970s. Those connotations would not seem to recommend its use in the 21st century. I disagree and feel it is a solid choice. Brown is uncommon while muted enough to be part of the business appropriate spectrum, standing out with a rather unbold color. It does take confidence to pull off the look, but fashion is all about confidence. It doesn't matter what you wear as long as you wear it well and without reservation. Time is also a flat circle, and the 70s earth tones are coming back.

Tan. Despite what you may have heard, a tan suit isn't out of the pale and there are plenty of historical precedents for it in warmer weather. A linen suit is almost guaranteed to be in part of the tan spectrum and, since DC is in a warm climate, it’s something to consider. A tan suit can be the perfect blend of professional and casual, allowing a different air about you than a stodgy ensemble. I like the idea of a tan suit and the last one I ordered is in this family, so I would highly recommend it.

Light Blue. There's way more to blue than navy. At the other extreme, you have powder blue that is a great option for spring and summer. They give you an option to really lighten up your wardrobe. Light blue colors also provide a calming effect on others and you'll appear more approachable, just don’t read into the psychology of colors and suits too much. Somewhere in the middle of the blue spectrum can also help differentiate yourself from the navy blue hordes. My first custom suit was a medium blue with substantial undertones of purple. Undertones add variation that allows you to differentiate yourself while still being closer to the traditional side of the spectrum. Just avoid dirt, as it will show up.

Dubious Choices

I firmly believe that everyone can make use of the colors discussed thus far. That conclusion is not true for the following colors. Perusing the fabric books reveals a Technicolor rainbow of color and form you never see in practice. These are novelties, not choices for a professional environment. To do so invites the wrong kind of attention and scrutiny, if such a thing exists. Proceed with caution when considering anything in this section.

White. The first things that come to mind when thinking about a white suit are either mint juleps or Saturday Night Fever. It is therefore hard to recommend a white suit. They are statement pieces—almost costumes—more than anything else. Mix and match can be a different story. You can create some decent looks by not going with the full suit; for example, in the summer, you could have white pants with a blue blazer or vice versa if you’re not afraid to get nautical. Made from the right material, the result would be comfortable and work appropriate.

Technicolor. Everything else falls into this last basket. It ranges from reds, yellows, purples, pinks, and bright greens. You know, novelty colors that are more appropriate for a professional golfer to wear after winning a tournament than someone doing actual work. I can’t recommend them. The only exception might be a darker green. There are historic examples and precedents for olive green suits, likely because of the classic pinks and greens of the World War II era. However, it’s hard to recommend it when there are so many better colors to exhaust first. The exception to avoiding brash colors is a coat. You have a lot more leeway with what's acceptable with outerwear, so a heavier fabric in a more interesting color is something you can get away with. A head-to-toe red suit would be ridiculous in the bureaucrat’s office, while a dark burgundy overcoat would be an interesting and strong statement.

Patterns

Suits can be more than one color, which shouldn't be a surprise. How those colors go together is worth some discussion. I wouldn't recommend starting with one of these options, you want to have at least one or two suits in your closet so you know what you like and have something perhaps a bit less loud to wear on a day-to-day basis. There are myriad patterns you could choose from, but they all fall into the same few general categories discussed here.

Stripes. If you always played a banker from Boston on Oregon trail, you might be naturally drawn to the pinstripe suit. Stripes on a suit, in general, go top to bottom. They're differentiated by the thickness of the stripe themselves. A pinstripe is the width of one thread, a chalk line stripe is a bit wider than that, and a Bengal stripe is almost equal to the width of the other color. The general guide is the wider the stripe, the less formal the suit; at the furthest extreme, you look like a clown. The classic is a white thread on a darker fabric, but fashion forward suits can mix and match many different combinations. I don't recommend any of that for day-to-day wear, especially if you're working in an office. You'll look out of place and you'll basically be that guy with that suit. The exception is the pinstripe suit, but you should only really be wearing that if you work at the Department of Justice or the Treasury, you’re a lawyer or banker, and you're at least 40– 50 years old.

Weaves. You can add additional patterns to the base fabric itself by introducing a different color to the weave of the fabric. I didn't know this until I worked with a bunch of textile experts, but there are tons of ways you can construct fabric. Depending on how warp meets the weft, you can generate geometric patterns throughout the fabric. Good options include a herringbone weave, basically a repeating set of chevrons with two somewhat similar colors, or twill, alternating straight lines. The latest suit I bought is a herringbone weave with a tan and a white thread to it giving it a tweedy appearance for an academic look. Complexity beyond these examples lessens the formality and moves you closer to the clown zone.

Prints. This last category encompasses a wide range of different looks and could include floral patterns, Paisley, camouflage, ombres, and similarly complex introductions of color. Unless you're an entertainer or your career demands standing out, none of these should be part of your wardrobe.