VII. Ties

There are strong indications that neckwear is on the way out. Even when people deign to wear a jacket these days, they often go sans necktie. Some professions, like medical, have almost completely phased out this garment because of its propensity to spread germs (think about how often you wash a tie). There's also the risk of restricted blood flow if you tie it too tightly; the first thing a paramedic will do is cut off a patient's tie. Like other parts of the wardrobe that were considered standard in decades past, neckties may become anachronisms. All that being said, I don't advocate for not having a tie. The way a suit is designed assumes that a tie is going to be there, and it looks incomplete without one. They're also one of the few ways that men can express themselves through color, pattern, and even a little silliness via fashion. I maintain a small collection that matches with various shirts and suit combinations, but don’t wear them every day.

Bow Ties

You have a decision to make. Will you commit and only wear bow ties or only wear neckties? There is no in-between. If you choose to the bow tie, you will forever be the bow tie guy in your office, because you will most likely be the only one wearing them. While you may think that is a good way to enhance your individuality, bow ties are a prop I don’t recommend. If you do choose them, just make sure that you get real one, not a pre-tied one; if you're going to go for it, don't wimp out. This discussion also applies to Bolo ties if you live outside the American Southwest.

Materials

Your standard necktie can be made of various materials. The most common, as with pretty much everything related to suits, is some synthetic material like polyester. Try to avoid them where possible. They tend to be thicker, cheaply made, and harder to tie. The luxury version will likely be silk or silk blend. You can feel the difference and the appearance will be superior. Silk is much less glossy and fake looking. Finally, there are knit ties, which are basically your grandma's crocheting tied around your neck. Knit ties have a blunted straight edge instead of a point and, like bow ties, this is something you have to commit to. I don't own any knit ties because I don't like the look.

Patterns

Now, the fun part of your tie collection. You have a ton of options across the color and pattern spectra. You'll want to ensure you have a mix to pair with different ensembles. You don't want to be the guy who's wearing the same tie every day. Unless you're in a more conservative environment, simply wearing a tie is enough and you can get a little goofy, if you have the confidence to pull it off. You can also exceed the color limit for shirts. The small form factor allows you to get away with more detail and color.

Solids. The most basic tie is a monochromatic thing that, at most, has some texture to the weave. These aren't bad options, they're just boring. Any solid color can work, with the knowledge that with certain colors are more seasonal (orange will always mean pumpkin).

Stripes. Some early ties used stripes representing military units. It was a method for veterans to identify each other in the civilian workforce. None of that applies now, so feel free to pick any kind of stripes you want.

Geometric. The majority of ties incorporate some kind of repeating geometric pattern. Similar to shirts, these can take a variety of forms, and you're pretty much good to go with whatever, as long as the colors don't clash.

Paisley. If you've ever seen a pattern resembling an asymmetrical amoeba, it was probably Paisley. It's a classic Persian design. You can have a reserved version with only one or two primary colors or a resplendent explosion of technicolor nonsense. I prefer the more reserved option, letting the pattern and contrasting colors carry the look. Paisley works especially well if the pattern is stitched instead of printed to yield a physical texture.

Grandma's Couch. There is a subset of ties that resemble the pattern that your grandparents might have chosen for their living room sofa. Many floral objects and garish colors reminiscent of a 1970s fever dream define this style of tie. You can still wear, it but you have to be the kind of guy who would.

Novelty. We haven't seen these ties in circulation since the end of the 1990s. My father had a full collection incorporating movie characters, pop culture, comic strips, and other curious designs (one had a repeating pattern of nuts and bolts). Novelty ties are screen printed and can incorporate pretty much any imagery you want. I only have a couple of these, including two with a circuit board theme for topical meetings and one from the Jerry Garcia collection reminiscent of 1990s paper cups. They’re not for everyday wear, but they can liven up a wardrobe and you’ll probably get supportive comments instead of derision.

Dimensions

You must consider the overall dimensions of the tie. Preferences change over time, and different widths are associated with different eras. The very thin ties of the 1960s worn in the NASA control room clash with the overly wide, cartoonish ties of the following decade. A good rule of thumb is that the width of the tie should be proportional to your frame, like how you pick the fit of your suit jacket and lapels. An average width will work good for most people. The length should be based on a person's height, and you can buy ties specifically for tall men. The main criterion is that, when tied and standing, the point touches your waistband and the thin end is not visible.

Knots

There are thousands of different tie knots that you could use. We won't discuss them all because, to be honest, most are either redundant, useless, or complex. You only need to know how to tie one and use it for the rest of your life. Everything else is vanity. We're not bored Victorians, we have work to do.

Four-in-Hand. The most basic and easiest knot to tie, it was probably the first one you learned. The only downside is that it gives high school dance vibes, but its’s perfectly acceptable. The slimmer profile works well with narrow-spaced collars.

Pratt. This option is my knot of choice and the one I recommend. It's easy to tie, works well with pretty much any collar spread, and yields a symmetrical, triangular appearance.

The Windsors. One of James Bond's rules in the books was to judge people by their tie knots. He found people that wore Windsors to be overly narcissistic and not to be trusted. I don't know if I'd go that far, but they're definitely not worth the effort, neither the half nor full version. It's time to let them go. The house of Sax-Coburg and Gotha has done enough damage to fashion.

Exotics. If you do an internet search for tie knots, you're bound to come across bold and striking examples that are folded in upon themselves multiple times to give a complex knot. If you want to spend the time to learn how to do those, go ahead, but be prepared to be the guy with the crazy tie knots. That's a big expectation to live up to.

Clip-on. Unless you're a child or in a profession that involves altercations with irascible people, you shouldn't be wearing a clip-on tie.

Accessories

Their increasing rareness implies ties themselves are optional accessories. There are multiple accoutrements you can add to improve the function or add additional flare. These changes are small, but they count toward the accessory limit.

Tie Bars. A tie bar is a clip that holds the tie to the front of your shirt, typically between the third and fourth buttons. It is used to keep your tie in place no matter how you're moving. I strongly recommend wearing a tie bar with a two-piece suit. There's nothing worse than your tie falling in the bathroom sink. You don't wear a tie bar with either double-breasted or three-piece suits; your tie is held by the jacket or waistcoat, making the tie bar superfluous. A tie bar can also add color. I have a silver and black one that I wear with a black tie, a white and silver enamel one that works well with light colors, a gold one I rarely wear, and several differently textured plain silver ones that go with almost everything. They're not too expensive, so you can acquire a variety without a substantial investment. One final rule, the width of the tie bar should be less than the width of the tie.

Tie Tack. These pins serve the same function as a tie bar: joining the tie and shirt. They poke a hole through the tie, potentially damaging it, and I don’t recommend them.

Collar Bar. A rare tie accessory is a piece of metal fastened between the collar, under the tie knot, to make the tie more pronounced. You can do this with a pin that goes through the collar, a bar run through specialty eyelets on the shirt collar, or a bar with clasps. Finding a shirt specifically designed for a collar bar is unlikely unless it’s custom made. If you're going to play around with the look, use the version with clasps so it's easier to wear without risking collar damage.

Pocket Squares

I wasn't sure where else to put this, but we have to talk about pocket squares somewhere. A pocket square is a square piece of fabric folded and placed in the front breast pocket of your jacket. It doesn't necessarily have to match your tie, and I would recommend that it doesn't to avoid a costume-like appearance. A white pocket square will always be a safe choice, and additional colors and patterns follow the rules for ties. There are multiple ways to fold a pocket square, ranging from stuffing it in the pocket to complex designs. The triangular fold is the most common and safest bet. A pocket square can be an accessory on its own, independent of a tie else. One gentleman I knew specifically didn't wear ties and only wore pocket squares, which was a viable look. I have a couple myself, but I almost never wear them because it's not my style.

Lanyards

If you're working in a controlled access office building, you're most likely going to be wearing a lanyard with your ID badge on it. The style of lanyard takes one of two forms. The first carries the name and logo of the organization you're working for. Those are always safe, but they give away information about you, so I recommend taking them off once you leave the building. The other option is a sports-related theme. It's almost part of the civilian uniform at the Pentagon to have a lanyard identifying your favorite football team. I don't like lanyards at all. They get in the way and it's just awkward to have them constantly bouncing around your neck. Instead, get an ID badge case that can clip onto your suit. My preference is attaching it to my shirt collar, which keeps it out of the way and in-place if I remove the jacket.